New alternatives to cosmetics preservation

dc.contributor.author	Παπαγεωργίου, Σπυρίδων	el
dc.contributor.author	Βαρβαρέσου, Αθανασία	el
dc.contributor.author	Τσιριβάς, Ευθύμιος	el
dc.contributor.author	Δεμέντζος, Κωνσταντίνος	el
dc.date.accessioned	2015-04-29T13:21:57Z
dc.date.issued	2015-04-29
dc.identifier.uri	http://hdl.handle.net/11400/9250
dc.rights	Αναφορά Δημιουργού-Μη Εμπορική Χρήση-Όχι Παράγωγα Έργα 3.0 Ηνωμένες Πολιτείες	*
dc.rights.uri	http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/us/	*
dc.source	http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com	en
dc.source	http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00609_3.x/abstract	en
dc.subject	Καλλυντικά
dc.subject	Φαρμακευτική
dc.subject	Χημικά παρασκευάσματα
dc.subject	Pharmacy
dc.subject	Chemical preparations
dc.title	New alternatives to cosmetics preservation	en
heal.type	journalArticle
heal.classification	Aesthetics
heal.classification	Cosmetics
heal.classification	Αισθητική
heal.classification	Κοσμητολογία
heal.classificationURI	http://id.loc.gov/authorities/subjects/sh85001441
heal.classificationURI	http://id.loc.gov/authorities/subjects/sh85033139
heal.classificationURI	N/A-Αισθητική
heal.classificationURI	N/A-Κοσμητολογία
heal.identifier.secondary	10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00609_3.x
heal.dateAvailable	10000-01-01
heal.language	en
heal.access	forever
heal.publicationDate	2010-09-01
heal.bibliographicCitation	Papageorgiou, S., Varvaresou, A., Tsirivas, E. and Demetzos, C. (2010) New alternatives to cosmetics preservation. "Journal of Cosmetic Science", 61 (2), p.107-123	en
heal.abstract	This work was partially presented at the 7th Joint Meeting of AFRP, ASP, GA, PSE and SIF, Athens, Greece, and at the XIIIth COSMODERM Joint Meeting of ESCAD and the Hellenic Society of Dermatology and Venerology, Athens, Greece. In recent years, there is a considerable interest in the development of preservative-free or self-preserving cosmetics. The aim of our work was to develop new cosmetic formulations by replacing chemical preservatives with ingredients with antimicrobial properties that are not legislated as preservatives according to Annex VI of Commission Directive 76/768/EEC. This paper describes the preservative efficacy of the well-known antimicrobial extracts of Lonicera caprifoleum and Lonicera japonica in combination with glyceryl caprylate and/or levulinic acid, p-anisic acid, and ethanol. We prepared a series of acidic (pH = 5.5) aqueous and O/W formulations, i.e., tonic lotion, shampoo, shower gel, conditioning cream, anticellulite cream, cleansing milk and peeling cream, containing (0.2% w/w) Lonicera extracts, alone in the case of tonic lotion and in combination with (1% w/w) glyceryl caprylate in the other products, and we performed challenge tests according to the European Pharmacopoeia procedures and criteria. Formulations such as shampoo, shower gel, and conditioning cream fulfilled criterion A, while tonic lotion, anticellulite cream, cleansing milk, and peeling cream fulfilled criterion B, in regard to contamination from A. niger. Furthermore, we evaluated the efficacy of the antimicrobial systems in two states of use: the intact product and after 3 weeks of consumer use. The results showed that A. niger was also detected during use by consumers in the products that satisfied only criterion B in challenge tests. The addition of antimicrobial fragrance ingredients such (≤0.3% w/w) levulinic acid or (0.1% w/w) p-anisic acid and/or (5% w/w) ethanol afforded products that met criterion A in challenge tests and were also microbiologically safe during use. The small quantity (5% w/w) of ethanol gave an important assistance in order to boost the self-preserving system and to produce stable and safe products.	en
heal.publisher	Wiley	en
heal.journalName	Journal of Cosmetic Science	en
heal.journalType	peer-reviewed
heal.fullTextAvailability	false